%0 Journal Article %T On the influence of reflection over a rhythmic swash zone on surf zone dynamics %+ Laboratoire d'études en Géophysique et océanographie spatiales (LEGOS) %+ Bureau de Recherches Géologiques et Minières (BRGM) (BRGM) %+ Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC) %+ Plymouth University %A Almar, Rafael %A Nicolae Lerma, Alexandre %A Castelle, Bruno %A Scott, Timothy %< avec comité de lecture %J Ocean Dynamics %V 68 %P 899-909 %8 2018 %D 2018 %Z 2018OcDyn..68..899A %R 10.1007/s10236-018-1165-5 %K Nearshore %K Beach cusps %K Reflection %K Edge wave %K Surf-swash interactions %K Low-tide terraced beach %K SWASH model %K Radon transform %K Rip current %Z Sciences of the Universe [physics] %Z Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/OceanographyJournal articles %X The reflection of incident gravity waves over an irregular swash zone morphology and the resulting influence on surf zone dynamics remains mostly unexplored. The wave-phase resolving SWASH model is applied to investigate this feedback using realistic low-tide terraced beach morphology with well-developed beach cusps. The rhythmic reflection generates a standing wave that mimics a subharmonic edge wave, from the superimposition of incident and two-dimensional reflected waves. This mechanism is enhanced by shore-normal, narrow-banded waves in both direction and frequency. Our study suggests that wave reflection over steep beaches could be a mechanism for the development of rhythmic morphological features such as beach cusps and rip currents. %G English %L insu-03670738 %U https://insu.hal.science/insu-03670738 %~ INSU %~ METEO %~ BRGM %~ EPHE %~ UNIV-TLSE3 %~ CNRS %~ CNES %~ OMP %~ OMP-LEGOS %~ GIP-BE %~ PSL %~ TEST-DEV %~ EPHE-PSL %~ BRGM-DO %~ UNIV-UT3 %~ UT3-INP %~ UT3-TOULOUSEINP